Fantastic creatures and where to find them
-Dina Rasquinha [Nov 3, 2019]
“We don’t go alone into the forest because there are crocodiles.”
The woman states this while she stirs fragrant, crispy mudi, or puffed rice, on a wood-fired chullah. The walls of the hut were lined by mud, barely four feet tall and covered with a thatched roof. My field assistant and I crouched down to catch a glimpse. A glimpse to see how each rice kernel popped into a plateful of deliciousness. A few drops of freshly squeezed lime, some chilli powder and chopped onions. That’s what you need to transform these crisp pops into a tasty snack, she instructed.
The kind lady packed us some too.
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Another day, another acquaintance.
A man recounts his encounter with a fascinating beast. “While I was fishing by the river, a crocodile attacked me out of nowhere. I somehow managed to escape unhurt.” Do you encounter crocodiles often? “They don’t come to us and attack us, but there are lots of crocodiles here. You’ll mostly find them resting alongside the Hental-ban (Phoenix paludosa forest). They often come into our ponds and eat our fish and shrimp.” The mangrove palm is also preferred by the locals for basket and mat weaving.
“Did you know the Forest Department breeds crocodiles here?” A concerned old man explains how the number of crocodiles in the vicinity are increasing because of the in-situ conservation efforts of the Forest Dept in the region. He is aghast at these efforts. He doesn’t understand why the Department invests resources in increasing the number of crocodiles. Crocodiles that eat their fish! Crocodiles that sometimes even harm them!
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Bhitarkanika harbours the saltwater crocodile (Crocodylus porosus), the largest species of the crocodilian family in the world. Although presently this species is at a much lower risk of extinction, the ‘70s was a grim decade for all three crocodile species found in the country (the freshwater species Gavialis gangeticus or the gharial, and Crocodylus palustris, also known as the Indian mugger). Commercial killing and habitat loss were two major reasons that pushed these creatures to the verge of extinction. A UNDP-Indian government-FAO-led collaborative effort sowed the seeds of crocodile conservation in the country and established several crocodile breeding and rehabilitation centres. Since then, the Odisha Forest Department has continued these efforts through their “rear and release” approach in Bhitarkanika under the Baula Project (Odiya term for saltwater crocodile). The eggs of crocodiles are carefully collected from the wild and incubated for 60-70 days. The hatchlings are reared to grow till about a meter-and -a-half long, when they can fend for themselves. Soon after, they’re released back into nearby creeks and estuaries.
Every year, the Park is shut to visitors during the annual crocodile census scheduled in the first week of January. It’s good earning time for some villagers, especially those who possess boats. A full day’s wage can fetch villagers anything between INR 350 and 1000 for their services. According to news outlets, this year, officials reported about 1742 individual crocodiles. This is a marginal increase from the 1713 individuals reported in 2018.
The woman states this while she stirs fragrant, crispy mudi, or puffed rice, on a wood-fired chullah. The walls of the hut were lined by mud, barely four feet tall and covered with a thatched roof. My field assistant and I crouched down to catch a glimpse. A glimpse to see how each rice kernel popped into a plateful of deliciousness. A few drops of freshly squeezed lime, some chilli powder and chopped onions. That’s what you need to transform these crisp pops into a tasty snack, she instructed.
The kind lady packed us some too.
--
Another day, another acquaintance.
A man recounts his encounter with a fascinating beast. “While I was fishing by the river, a crocodile attacked me out of nowhere. I somehow managed to escape unhurt.” Do you encounter crocodiles often? “They don’t come to us and attack us, but there are lots of crocodiles here. You’ll mostly find them resting alongside the Hental-ban (Phoenix paludosa forest). They often come into our ponds and eat our fish and shrimp.” The mangrove palm is also preferred by the locals for basket and mat weaving.
“Did you know the Forest Department breeds crocodiles here?” A concerned old man explains how the number of crocodiles in the vicinity are increasing because of the in-situ conservation efforts of the Forest Dept in the region. He is aghast at these efforts. He doesn’t understand why the Department invests resources in increasing the number of crocodiles. Crocodiles that eat their fish! Crocodiles that sometimes even harm them!
--
Bhitarkanika harbours the saltwater crocodile (Crocodylus porosus), the largest species of the crocodilian family in the world. Although presently this species is at a much lower risk of extinction, the ‘70s was a grim decade for all three crocodile species found in the country (the freshwater species Gavialis gangeticus or the gharial, and Crocodylus palustris, also known as the Indian mugger). Commercial killing and habitat loss were two major reasons that pushed these creatures to the verge of extinction. A UNDP-Indian government-FAO-led collaborative effort sowed the seeds of crocodile conservation in the country and established several crocodile breeding and rehabilitation centres. Since then, the Odisha Forest Department has continued these efforts through their “rear and release” approach in Bhitarkanika under the Baula Project (Odiya term for saltwater crocodile). The eggs of crocodiles are carefully collected from the wild and incubated for 60-70 days. The hatchlings are reared to grow till about a meter-and -a-half long, when they can fend for themselves. Soon after, they’re released back into nearby creeks and estuaries.
Every year, the Park is shut to visitors during the annual crocodile census scheduled in the first week of January. It’s good earning time for some villagers, especially those who possess boats. A full day’s wage can fetch villagers anything between INR 350 and 1000 for their services. According to news outlets, this year, officials reported about 1742 individual crocodiles. This is a marginal increase from the 1713 individuals reported in 2018.
Bijaya Kabi, the Director of APOWA, an NGO that been working in this region for decades, explains that occasionally, villagers may blame these oblivious creatures even without suffering any physical harm from them. Their discomfort is understandable in some way, however. They frequently encounter this species that enjoys a fearsome reputation among the masses. They don’t understand the importance of in-situ conservation measures practised by the Forest Department staff, because they don’t benefit from these efforts in any way.
Crocodiles and humans share a bittersweet relationship in this region, much like other places in the country. The crocodile frequently features in Hindu mythological stories.
The most popular of them all is a story of salvation, where Lord Vishnu had to descend from Heaven to Earth to rescue the elephant king Gajendra from the clutches of this aquatic beast. The elephant struggled for over a thousand years to free itself from the crocodile’s powerful hold, finally resorting to divinely assistance.
During my time with the villagers, many narrated this tale explaining why they keep away from the infamous fearsome crocodile. It was also interesting to know how some felt keeping away was better than simply troubling the creature.
“But the tourists don’t understand,” the Forest Guard explained. “There are signboards everywhere, but they still throw stones at them because they want to see them move.” He jokingly emphasises, “These lazy creatures just like to stay put in one place and soak up the sun. Is that too much to ask?
It’s interesting how religion sometimes plays such an intricate role in influencing how people interact with wildlife. The Indian mugger, for example, is often seen as the vehicle of the river goddess Gangadevi. The depiction portrays a calm and benign presence of the creature rather than the usual fearsome and deadly representation of the reptile.
Crocodiles and humans share a bittersweet relationship in this region, much like other places in the country. The crocodile frequently features in Hindu mythological stories.
The most popular of them all is a story of salvation, where Lord Vishnu had to descend from Heaven to Earth to rescue the elephant king Gajendra from the clutches of this aquatic beast. The elephant struggled for over a thousand years to free itself from the crocodile’s powerful hold, finally resorting to divinely assistance.
During my time with the villagers, many narrated this tale explaining why they keep away from the infamous fearsome crocodile. It was also interesting to know how some felt keeping away was better than simply troubling the creature.
“But the tourists don’t understand,” the Forest Guard explained. “There are signboards everywhere, but they still throw stones at them because they want to see them move.” He jokingly emphasises, “These lazy creatures just like to stay put in one place and soak up the sun. Is that too much to ask?
It’s interesting how religion sometimes plays such an intricate role in influencing how people interact with wildlife. The Indian mugger, for example, is often seen as the vehicle of the river goddess Gangadevi. The depiction portrays a calm and benign presence of the creature rather than the usual fearsome and deadly representation of the reptile.
However, the large population density of crocodiles and humans in the region has made it difficult for both to keep their distance and live peacefully. A recent study reports that in the last 15 years, about 57 people were attacked by crocodiles in Bhitarkanika. Among those who were attacked, 27 lost their lives. The remaining suffered injuries, some major.
My interaction with the villagers, however, emphasised that people were more upset because they weren’t adequately compensated for living in such close proximity to these stealthy creatures, oblivious of human-forest-water boundaries. Most felt the process to acquire compensation was tedious and non-transparent. It was a combination of factors, obviously. Wild boars frequently raided their fields and sometimes stole their goats; crocodiles sneakily stole their fish. Some strongly felt that if extracting firewood was a crime, they should at least be provided adequate compensation when they suffer losses from animal raids.
Interestingly, religious significance often overrides ecological significance in the country. Occasionally, both coincide beautifully and make for enriching stories. At other times, they don’t. For instance, villagers value the mangrove forest, locally referred to as Hental-ban or Sundari-ban, for their ecological significance. The forest’s ability to keep the shoreline intact, attenuate large waves, and provide a protective net against frequent storms is well known. In contrast, the ecological significance of the crocodiles is less clear. They are usually feared, at times revered too, but not for their important role in the river ecosystem.
These fantastic creatures that bask along riverbanks, soaking up the warm sun’s rays, play a crucial role in the river food chain as the apex predator, much like the tiger. They help increase the general population of fish in the river by preying on predator fish that eat smaller fish and destroy fishnets. In fact, much of Odisha’s intricate and artistic temple architecture displays this seemingly less popular ecological trivia. A stone crocodile is seen eating a fish in one of the carvings at the famous Sun Temple in Konark, Odisha.
My interaction with the villagers, however, emphasised that people were more upset because they weren’t adequately compensated for living in such close proximity to these stealthy creatures, oblivious of human-forest-water boundaries. Most felt the process to acquire compensation was tedious and non-transparent. It was a combination of factors, obviously. Wild boars frequently raided their fields and sometimes stole their goats; crocodiles sneakily stole their fish. Some strongly felt that if extracting firewood was a crime, they should at least be provided adequate compensation when they suffer losses from animal raids.
Interestingly, religious significance often overrides ecological significance in the country. Occasionally, both coincide beautifully and make for enriching stories. At other times, they don’t. For instance, villagers value the mangrove forest, locally referred to as Hental-ban or Sundari-ban, for their ecological significance. The forest’s ability to keep the shoreline intact, attenuate large waves, and provide a protective net against frequent storms is well known. In contrast, the ecological significance of the crocodiles is less clear. They are usually feared, at times revered too, but not for their important role in the river ecosystem.
These fantastic creatures that bask along riverbanks, soaking up the warm sun’s rays, play a crucial role in the river food chain as the apex predator, much like the tiger. They help increase the general population of fish in the river by preying on predator fish that eat smaller fish and destroy fishnets. In fact, much of Odisha’s intricate and artistic temple architecture displays this seemingly less popular ecological trivia. A stone crocodile is seen eating a fish in one of the carvings at the famous Sun Temple in Konark, Odisha.
Similarly, the scavenging role in the ecosystem is almost never discussed. What keeps the river clean? The crocodile! They ensure carcasses decompose properly, keeping the rivers clean and healthy.
In this region, the crocodiles also play a very significant role in keeping mangrove forests healthy. Part of the government’s efforts in reviving the species from the brink of extinction have made sure that Phoenix paludosa, a mangrove palm is part of the re-afforestation efforts in the Park. The bushy and scrubby growth of the palm provides the perfect nesting habitat for the reptile. The reptile also creates a sense of fear and caution, keeping villagers away from deep forested areas. They only enter demarcated forest trails, always in groups to harvest firewood. Villagers also do not trouble the reptiles by destroying their habitat. If a nest is spotted, it is reported to the officials.
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As you walk along the muddy roads in Bhitarkanika, you will notice ample green. Yellow-ish light green shade of the rice fields on one side, a dark dense green hue of the mangrove forest on the other. If you ask a villager where you can spot a crocodile, he’ll point to both directions.
In this region, the crocodiles also play a very significant role in keeping mangrove forests healthy. Part of the government’s efforts in reviving the species from the brink of extinction have made sure that Phoenix paludosa, a mangrove palm is part of the re-afforestation efforts in the Park. The bushy and scrubby growth of the palm provides the perfect nesting habitat for the reptile. The reptile also creates a sense of fear and caution, keeping villagers away from deep forested areas. They only enter demarcated forest trails, always in groups to harvest firewood. Villagers also do not trouble the reptiles by destroying their habitat. If a nest is spotted, it is reported to the officials.
--
As you walk along the muddy roads in Bhitarkanika, you will notice ample green. Yellow-ish light green shade of the rice fields on one side, a dark dense green hue of the mangrove forest on the other. If you ask a villager where you can spot a crocodile, he’ll point to both directions.